Getting High
Hello from Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca!
I have had a few days at high altitude now, and I give kudos to those athletes that head to such places to train. I can barely walk a few steps without puffing, although each day gets a little better.
We wisely spent two days in Arequipa (altitude around 2,500 metres) to acclimatise, then took a rather uncomfortable little coach (the seats made my hips ache, then making walking even more difficult) on a magnificent detour through the Peruvian Highlands. But more on that later - first Arequipa. This is such a delightful colonial town centre. And it was worth climbing the three floors to get the views during sunset of the main cathedral overlooking the square.
We also toured the Santa Catalina convent (there are still around 25 nuns there, although I only saw a few later after dark) which is a labyrinth little town of itself inside the cloister walls. Our tour guide was clearly keeping to a schedule alternating "Take your time" with the more common "Please, this way" as we were rushed through in about an hour. What's worse, my camera battery died half way through. Our Intrepid tour leader negotiated so that we were supposedly able to go back again around 4pm, but when I called in later that night (at 7pm) the woman on the front desk was replaced by a man who decidedly told me the ticket in my hand was for one admission only. :-(
And what delayed me? That would be an even more frustrating post office experience than on Easter Island. It took me an hour and a half to send a packet of trinkets that cost more in postage than what's inside! I had to queue three times, and the PO neither sells bags/boxes or will copy your passport for you (both had to be negotiated in other shops, then return to the PO to queue again). If it wasn't for a lovely Peruvian lady who had been living in the US who helped me, I think I would have given up. I am sorry she didn't take up my offer to buy her a coffee in thanks.
Anyway, there is no shortage of churches in Arequipa - check out the gallery for the "Company Church" - which is the Jesuit one from the 16th century and truly spectacular. Of course, for those first conquistadors it was all about gold, whether they wore armour or cassock...
We were also taken up to a couple of look out points around town, where you can see the hulking presence of "el Misti" the volcano closer to which more and more houses are (unwisely, perhaps) being constructed as the town grows.
Our subsequent day was a long one in a smaller bus as we headed to the highlands. Because the miners were rioting in Juliaca (and had closed down the town), we were forced to take a detour through the (unfinished) back roads of the Peruvian highlands in order to get to Puno. This was rather exciting - although I will admit I was feeling a bit giddy anyway from the high altitude. We stopped at the highest point - a whopping 4,500 metres above sea level. Just walking around the van elicited tiny dizzy head spins (although you'll be pleased to know the vertigo has subsided now I have a new reason for these head rushes!).
On our detour we passed through a little town that had its cattle market day in its bullring (seen from the distance of the road) and I think, given there were 3 or 4 minivans and a large bus or two taking this detour, that this convoy was almost as much a spectacle for the locals. We passed through many a valley with cows, sheep, crops, and little brown mud brick houses - and the obligatory green painted outhouses!
When we arrived in Puno, we then had to backtrack along the road to Juliaca in order to visit the Funerary Towers of the Incas and pre-Incas. These ominous round towers are on an isthmus surrounded by a lake, and while it took me twice the time they claimed, I did manage to walk to the top for the fantastic views. It wasn't so much the breathing, as the fact that the uncomfortable bus seats had made both my hips cramp, and walking did not seem to improve it at all (a bath and long sleep have seen them right again today).
It's just as well we didn't take any longer at Sillustani, as the clouds that were looking very ominous, and dramatic for photos, opened up to the most amazing freak hailstorm as we drove the 14km back to Puno.
Puno, at an altitude of 3,800 metres, is rather small and ordinary after Arequipa - but on Friday night it was livened up 'til all hours with the longest parade I have ever seen. Apparently each section was a faculty or club of the University (the engineers were dressed up as Gorillas?!) and they had the most colourful costumes, as they whirled and danced by to brass bands and drums. It was difficult in the low light to capture any decent photos, but I've included one with this blog.
Concerned spectators were going through the parade offering shots of white rum to the nearly naked dancers - it was probably around 12 degrees at the time. I think that might explain, just a little, the level of exultation in the parade! And talking of cold - I am sitting with my sarong over my head and shoulders and the little radiator on in my room, as the temperature has certainly dropped from this morning. It's only 3.30pm, so I will head out and take a few pictures of the main square. Maybe look for somewhere warm for a cup of coca tea, where I can watch the world go by.
Our next stop is Cuzco tomorrow - by public bus. Oh, and I'll post some pictures of the floating islands I visited this morning.
Until then, Aveline. :-)
