Airport Blues
While I am stuck at the Buenos Aires airport for several hours, I may as well make a start on telling you what I have been doing in the Paris of the south (other than sit in an airport for several hours - the plane I was about to board to Lima was struck by lightning, and is wisely undergoing maintenance).
We arrived at midnight Thursday on a domestic flight from Iguazu, so essentially I only had Friday and Saturday in this very European city. And they were two gloriously sunny days, unlike today’s miserable rainy and stormy weather.
The majestic buildings are very reminiscent of parts of Madrid and Paris. Our first day was scheduled, and quite fully so too. We did a walking tour around the centre of town, seeing the Casa Rosada (the pink palace where the president works - and famous for having the balcony from which Eva and Juan Peron would address the public in the late 40’s, early 50’s). Across the main square from the palace is the cathedral, town hall, and a number of other stately buildings. From here we caught a bus to La Boca (the mouth – or old port) which houses the artistic community of the city – musicians, and artists.
The houses are made of wood and corrugated tin painted in bright colours. We visited an artist's studios for a chance to see inside these little colourful homes where in the past several families would occupy a room each and share a toilet, and we visited a sculptor's studio near the iron bridge (not sure why as we had to wait for him to arrive on his bike, then walk single file to the end of his studio to see his garden and back, he had few completed works, and we had few questions?!?).
Anyway, we had a lovely lunch of empanadas, home made in a school that teaches local children these skills, as well as selling the most amazing biscuits/cakes called alfajores (my photo is courtesy of the internet).
They are like smaller, thicker wagon wheel biscuits, and come in chocolate and white (with raspberry jam inside). I had mine with a coffee for breakfast this morning at the airport...
Our evening was then spent having a three course meal with wine at a Tango show, followed by a tango lesson. This was the most fun - only 16 steps learnt (two sets of 8) and at first I just watched and took photos for others, but the lure of tango was too great and I ended up on the stage learning the harder second part where the woman pirouettes around the man's foot and finishes with her knee on his hip and arm up in the air (yes, a great tango pose!).
My next day was a bit more underwhelming... I went to visit two "apple" shops I had googled (Apple isn't in Argentina, so there are only resellers), except the first was a dinky calculator and watch shop (I didn't even bother going in - see, you really can't believe everything you read on the internet!), and the second in a very busy shopping mall the day before Mother's Day here. The crowds were mayhem. The sad news was that the phone is indeed quite dead and will need operating (ie opened by an official repairer).
The phone was generally adding to my misery for the day. I still had an upset tummy, and I walked in the wrong direction for 2 kms - but at least it was near the first shop, so maybe my feet were telling me to get an answer about the phone first? And as I was nearby, I also took a tour (in Spanish) of the National Theatre - although the one in Santiago is still my favourite for its eclectic mix of styles. This one is mostly in a baroque style, but I had a keen group who kept asking more questions (in Spanish), and I couldn't understand it all, so I got a bit bored and really wanted to move on. My next stop was the pink palace, where the tour is free (the theatre was close to $25 for foreigners, and $5 for locals!), but again nothing special. At least the room dedicated to Eva Peron was interesting, and I got to stand on her balcony.
Anyway, after taking the metro to the second phone store, I accepted that there was nothing more I could do and I bought a watch in order to be on time (an important prerequisite of group travel). I then decided to take a quick look around the suburb called Recoleto - which I'm glad I did as it was probably the nicest part of my day. As the sun set, I enjoyed a coffee then a stroll around the markets before getting a taxi back (I had been on my feet between 10am and 7pm and walked quite a few kilometres).
And now being stuck for five hours in BA airport (which means I miss the Lima walking tour with my next group)... I don't think Argentina and I agree on much this holiday. :-( I will have to come back and give it another try. Buenos Aires is a truly beautiful and stately city, but reminds me a bit of a great dame past her glory days. So much of the infrastructure has not been maintained - the metro was in quite a run down state. Our guide shared his thoughts with us about how it all began in the 50s and 60s when Argentina was a massive agricultural producer, and eighth richest nation in the world, but didn't invest much into industrialisation, and from then onwards has been playing catch up with the rest of the world.
I think it is a wise tale about continuous development and the importance of not resting on your laurels.
Next post - another country, another tale, I'm sure.
Until then... Aveline. xxx
