The Travelling Life's a Beach
I've had a bit of a lazier day today. Although I was convinced I had walked half the beach - turns out I went one-fifth: five posts, and I walked from 5 to 4! I was glad to seek cover in the shade and spend more time mostly sitting and people watching. I am surprised at how many body shapes there are (in bikinis and speedos) on Copacabana beach. I think I was expecting more "beautiful people" rather than regular people. It was nice to see it being used too as a family beach - mums handing out wrapped sandwiches, little kids dripping with seawater and shivering with their towels wrapped around them. I do have to worry about how bad skin cancer is here. There are a lot of very brown people (who normally wouldn't be, that is!).
I am still seeking an Açai juice (rated number one in my guide book for the top 10 juices). I spied in the Ipanema square on the way home a small booth claiming they have Brazil's best Açai - maybe tomorrow? But I did get to try juice number two today - a Cupuaçu - which is a bit like pineapple; sweet and tangy. I really liked it. I've also tried a cashew juice (not as nice as the nuts) at breakfast in the hotel, and finished my day with a refrigerated coconut (the water drunk from the shell - see further below).
There was quite a bit of activity on Copacabana Beach. Lots of people play volleyball with as few as 2 or as many as 5 on each team, and always played vocally with lots of shouts and protests and "I could have made that shot but my foot slipped in the sand..." (don't need to understand Portuguese to get that one!). The number of hawkers is amazing too. In front of my table was a bikini lady and she did a roaring trade all the while I sat there. She fits women over their existing tops. I notice nobody wears matching bikinis, which might explain her selling only the tops or the bottoms but never a set? Lots of sarong sellers. I also saw a man with a small keg over each shoulder (water?), a prawn skewer vendor, paper cones of peanuts, and balloon animals. They all roam around with many hat sellers and sunglasses sellers. It certainly gives the beach a unique feel.
I think I prefer Ipanema though, which is much smaller. It was late in the day when I got there - everyone was packing up or gone. And the clouds certainly looked threatening. I am sure it is just as hectic during the day. But as a cool breeze wafted across the sand, and I listened to the man at the table next to me whistling Beatles tunes, it was rather peaceful and serene.
My guide book recommended this beach for sunsets, but there was far too much cloud.
Although with a bit of digital magic, I was able to lift the colours so we can all imagine that the photo attached to this blog is what the sunset really looked like! (I am sure this is what all those glossy travel brochures do...)
And talking about magic - today I managed to get in to see the Museum of Fine Arts.
There was still a queue that went around the block. So I went to ask - as I noticed there was some special exhibition, which I didn't want to see. I just wanted the general admission. The nice (and very well spoken in English) guard chatted with me a little, as I expressed disappointment at how I'd now tried three times to get in and only had a day left in Rio. I asked if I should have arrived earlier. He asked if I was travelling alone, then asked me to wait in a smaller queue (about 6 people in it), and he would come and get me soon.
Sure enough 20 minutes later I was not only in the museum, but got free access to the special exhibition of pieces from the Vatican (Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Titian) that was sent to coincide with the World Youth Day celebrations. The exhibition closes this weekend, hence the long last-minute queues. It was fantastic. I also enjoyed the floor of Brazilian artists, as well as the statue galleries. I am now a big fan of Pedro Américo. Amazing work (google him).
Of course as karma would have it, this was balanced out by my next experience. After this great bonus, I decided I had just enough time to get to the Monastery of Sao Beno. As it looked like quite a walk from the Metro and I had gallery legs (!) I thought I'd take a taxi, even though it was a short trip - it was still in the CBD area. I had trouble getting my taxi driver to understand me, or to know what he was trying to tell me (he gave up after 30 seconds), although he said the name of the location back to me. Three minutes later he announced we were there and pointed to a religious building a half-block away. I did not think it was quite that close, but with the one-way streets and going around the block to head in the right direction, I wasn't so sure. I thanked him and paid the 5 Reals ($2.50), walked the block and realised he had taken me to the Convent of San Antonia (when he clearly had confirmed the Monastery of Sao Beno). So, it seems he didn't want the short fare. But as $4.50 was the flagfall, I think that was a disgraceful trick to play on a visitor. By the time I worked out where I was, I couldn't be bothered trying to get to the monastery for probably only an hour. I was near a Metro station, so I just headed back to Ipanema. All the while thinking, "What an asshole. It was about 6 more blocks from where he dropped me." Huh!
That aside, I've really enjoyed Rio. I meet up with my group tomorrow evening. So I have tomorrow to either try the Monastery again, or maybe head in the opposite direction to the Botanical Gardens? Will let you know what I do, and all about the group (and if I have a room mate!).
Cheers for now - Aveline. xxx
